From The Dept. of We Told You So: So-called "bamboo" fabric is actually man-made rayon, and the Federal Trade Commission (FTC) is clamping down on greenwashing retailers trying to sell it as an eco-friendly alternative. The FTC has warned 78 retailers (including big guys Target, Wal-Mart, Amazon.com and Bed Bath and Beyond) to stop labeling and advertising rayon fabric as "bamboo."

"The truth is, most 'bamboo' textile products, if not all, really are rayon, which typically is made using environmentally toxic chemicals in a process that emits hazardous pollutants into the air," explains an FTC business alert. "While different plants, including bamboo, can be used as a source material to create rayon, there’s no trace of the original plant in the finished rayon product.“ Concludes David C. Vladeck, director of the agency’s Bureau of Consumer Protection, “Rayon is rayon, even if bamboo has been used somewhere along the line in the manufacturing process.”

If "bamboo" fabric isn't really "bamboo" at all, where did the so-called "bamboo-ness" come from? Chemically manufactured bamboo fiber is actually a regenerated cellulose fiber, similar to rayon or modal. Its manufacture relies on hydrolysis alkalization with multi-phase bleaching, which is potentially hazardous both to human health and the environment and definitely neither sustainable nor environmentally supportable. Many bamboo fabric companies attempt to offset this appalling situation by obtaining an ISO 14001 certification, showing the factory has put in place some environmental guidelines to green its practices.

But even if there were actual bamboo content in "bamboo" rayon (and make no mistake—there's not), let us pop one final bubble. Bamboo's popularly heralded natural antibacterial, anti-fungal and deodorizing properties? A myth. Even writers at the LA Times Blogs have been sucked into these pretty claims. In fact, bamboo's anti-bacterial claim was recently repudiated by research conducted by Colorado State University chemists. As it turns out, anti-bacterial qualities are not unique to bamboo fabric at all. It was just more of the ol' bamboozle, all along.

(Photo credit:andres_ol, SXC)

There's a green sheen on the bamboo fabrics that are becoming ubiquitous in green displays at stores everywhere today—and we smell a greenwashing rat.  A lovely fabric from an apparently readily renewable, sustainable source, bamboo has captivated green fashion mavens. Is it really as eco-friendly as it purports to be?

Bamboo itself is an incredibly renewable, eco-friendly crop that grows quickly, without the need for huge loads of pesticides. Myths and dirty little realities come tumbling forth, however, when you look behind the scenes at bamboo fabric's production.

• Chemically manufactured bamboo fiber is a regenerated cellulose fiber similar to rayon or modal. Because of the potential health risks and damage to the environment surrounding the manufacturing facilities, textile manufacturing processes for bamboo or other regenerated fibers using hydrolysis alkalization with multi-phase bleaching are not considered sustainable or environmentally supportable. (OrganicClothing.blogs.com)
• To address both environmental and health concerns about this chemical use ... many bamboo fabric factories get the ISO 14001 certification, which shows the factory has put in place some environmental guidelines to green its practices. (LATimes Blogs)
• Bamboo's popularly heralded natural antibacterial, anti-fungal and deodorizing properties are, in fact, a myth. (Even the LA Times Blogs have been sucked into these very pretty claims.) Bamboo's anti-bacterial claim was recently repudiated by research conducted by Colorado State University chemists. As it turns out, anti-bacterial qualities are not unique to bamboo fabric at all.
• Bamboo products also bring up labor issues, as most of the goods are produced in China where labor practices may be suspect. (LATimes Blogs)

All in all, bamboo fabric is a chemically manufactured product. Don't be bamboozled by overzealous green claims. More sustainable production methods are necessary before bamboo fabric can be considered truly green. Until that happens, fans of sustainable fabrics and clothing may prefer to stick with certified organic cotton.

(Photo credit:andres ol, SXC)